The Amalfi Coast is 50 kilometres of vertical Mediterranean drama — villages stacked against cliffs above a sea so blue it looks altered, lemon groves terraced into impossibly steep slopes, and a coastal road that drivers have been navigating since Roman emperors built their villas here. It rewards people who get off the main road: the paths between villages, the private coves below the hotels, the fishing ports before the day boats arrive.
What to do there
- 01
The Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) from Agerola to Nocelle — a 7km cliff-top trail 600 metres above the sea with views of Capri, the Faraglioni rocks, and the entire coast laid out below. Do it west to east (downhill) in the morning light. The path ends above Positano; take the 1,700 steps down to the village and reward yourself with a swim at Fornillo beach.
- 02
Hire a private boat from Amalfi or Positano for a day — a gozzo barca with a local captain who knows the sea caves, the hidden coves only accessible from water, and the good anchorage off Capri. Swim off the bow, eat mozzarella and prosciutto on deck, anchor at Li Galli (the three islands once owned by Rudolf Nureyev). This is the Amalfi that the road doesn't reach.
- 03
Ravello — the village 300 metres above Amalfi that Gore Vidal called home for 30 years. Villa Rufolo's terraced gardens hang over the coast; Wagner composed part of Parsifal here and the estate hosts classical concerts against the sea backdrop every summer. Villa Cimbrone at the far end of the village has the Terrace of Infinity, a belvedere so absurd it barely feels real.
- 04
Limoncello making at a lemon farm above Maiori — the sfusato amalfitano lemon is a regional variety, larger and more fragrant than any other Italian lemon, grown on terraced groves that have operated since the 13th century. Small family producers above Maiori open their farms for tours and limoncello lessons.
- 05
Dinner at a table in Conca dei Marini — a village that falls through the cracks between Amalfi and Positano, with one trattoria that opens when the owner feels like it, serves whatever came off the boats that morning, and charges €25 for a full meal with house wine. Ask at the bar on the harbour.
Best time to go
May, June, and September. July and August are peak — the coastal road becomes a single-lane parking lot. October is quieter, warm enough to swim, and the light turns amber. Avoid Easter weekend.
Insider tip
Positano is the most photographed and most expensive village. Stay in Praiano (10 minutes east) for a third of the price, quiet lanes, and the same sea. Take the ferry to Positano for the day.
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