Crete is Greece's largest island and its most complete one — it has the best food, the most dramatic landscape, the oldest culture, and the widest range of experiences of any Greek island. The north coast has been developed; the south coast, accessible only by mountain road or boat, is a different island entirely. The Cretan diet — olive oil, wild greens, legumes, small amounts of meat — is one of the most studied longevity diets in the world. The people who live it still live it.
What to do there
- 01
Samaria Gorge — a 16km hike through Europe's longest gorge, dropping from 1,200 metres to sea level over 6 hours. The gorge walls narrow to 3 metres at the Iron Gates, 600 metres above your head. The trail is one-way downhill; a ferry from Agia Roumeli brings you back to civilisation. Go early, bring more water than you think you need.
- 02
The Lassithi Plateau at dawn — a high-altitude agricultural plain surrounded by mountains in eastern Crete, dotted with traditional windmills and farming communities that supply Heraklion's markets. Drive up before sunrise, walk the plateau edge as the valley fills with light, eat breakfast at the one kafeneion that opens at 7am.
- 03
Elafonisi beach on the southwest coast — a shallow lagoon of pink-tinged sand (from crushed coral and shells) at the southwestern tip of the island. Go in May or October when it's not packed. The water is knee-deep for 100 metres, then drops off to open sea. The drive along the south coast to get there is as good as the destination.
- 04
Olive oil tasting at a traditional press in Archanes — the village south of Heraklion is surrounded by olive groves cultivated since Minoan times. The Lyrarakis estate produces estate olive oil and natural wine from indigenous grape varieties. Tastings by appointment, small groups, honest pricing.
- 05
Knossos at opening time — the Minoan palace complex 5km from Heraklion, the largest Bronze Age archaeological site in the Aegean, inhabited from 7000 BCE. Arrive when the gates open at 8am before the tour buses arrive. The reconstructed frescoes in the Throne Room and the drainage system (running water in 1700 BCE) are genuinely astonishing.
Best time to go
April through June and September through October. July and August are brutally hot and the popular beaches pack out. Winter (November–March) sees most of the south coast close, but Heraklion and the north remain open.
Insider tip
Cretan food at its best is at a mezedopolio — a small place serving multiple small dishes, local wine, and raki (the local spirit, served free at the end of every meal as a matter of culture). The best ones have no menu: the owner tells you what's good today. Always say yes.
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