Dubrovnik is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe — a complete 14th-century walled city with marble-paved streets, Baroque churches, a working harbour, and the Adriatic blue at the base of every street. It's also one of the most crowded cities in the Mediterranean in summer. The trick, as with all beautiful places, is timing and knowing where to walk after everyone else stops.
What to do there
- 01
The city walls at 8am — 2km of intact medieval fortifications running the entire perimeter of the old city, with towers, moats, and uninterrupted views over the terracotta rooftops to the sea. The walls open at 8am and entry is 35 EUR; the first 90 minutes before tour groups arrive are a completely different experience. Walk the full circuit counterclockwise.
- 02
Lokanda Peskarija restaurant on the old harbour — a fish restaurant on the Porporela harbour wall, tables pushed against the stone quay, grilled sea bass and black risotto served to fishermen and locals since 1979. Order the fish of the day grilled in olive oil and herbs and eat facing the water. Arrive without a reservation at noon when it opens.
- 03
Kayak the sea walls from the water — sea kayaking operators launch from below the old city walls and paddle the full coastal circuit from the harbour south to Betina cave and back. The perspective from water level looking up at the 25-metre walls and Fort Lovrijenac is what all the photographs miss. Operators run trips at sunrise for the best light.
- 04
Lopud Island by ferry — a 45-minute catamaran from the old city harbour to a car-free island in the Elaphiti archipelago. Rent a bicycle and ride to Šunj beach on the island's south side: a sandy bay (rare in Croatia, which is mostly rock and pebble) with clear turquoise water. Return on the evening ferry. Half-day round trip for about 20 EUR.
- 05
The War Photo Limited gallery (Antuninska 6, Old Town) — the only permanent exhibition in the Balkans dedicated to war photography, with a permanent collection on the 1991–95 war in the former Yugoslavia including the siege of Dubrovnik itself. The photographs are extraordinary and the context is essential for understanding the city you're walking through.
Best time to go
May and September–October are the most liveable months — warm enough to swim, crowds manageable. July and August the old city holds 10,000 tourists at once on streets designed for 5,000 permanent residents. Early June is the window before the cruise ships fully arrive.
Insider tip
The Pile Gate (the main entrance to the old city) faces west and gets a golden light in the late afternoon that photographers queue for. Walk 200 metres south to the Buža bar — a hole-in-the-wall literally cut through the city wall to a terrace over the sea — and watch the same light from there with a cold beer and no queue.
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Sound of Dubrovnik
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